Walk Days 33-34 Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo

10/9- 10/10 Had some rain both days so left a little later than normal waiting out the rain. I walked from Acebo to Ponferrada on Sunday, and then to Villafranca del Beirzo on Monday.

Once again the landscape is changing as I head toward mountain ranges and a new wine region, Bierzo.

Directional signs heading to Ponferrada.
Beautiful mountains and countryside. Once again, the terrain has changed.

The trail Sunday from Acebo was treacherous with uneven rock. You had to really focus on the ground or you could have easily injured yourself. Once again this was a true hike and not a walk. I’ve had a few people tell me the Camino looks easy and it most certainly is not when you have these sorts of paths or elevations to climb.

The terrain from Acebo to Ponferrada was crazy! Took a lot longer to walk today given the terrain above which made up most of the day.
The town of Molinaseca on the way to Ponferrada

On the way to Ponferrada, I went through the town of Molinaseca. Molinaseca is one of the most popular and beautiful villages on the Camino de Santiago located in the wine region of Bierzo. Like so many towns that grew up around the Roman roads and medieval roads, Molinaseca arose around the Maruelo river, with its bridge known as the “Bridge of the Pilgrims”. The importance of the bridge was enormous, since sometimes for dozens of kilometers there were no other paths which allowed the pilgrims, travelers and traders to continue on their way. The bridge of Molinaseca is of Roman origin, but its current structure dates above all from the medieval Romanesque period.

Bridge of pilgrims
Statue of Santiago leaving Molinaseca

Coming into the magnificent city of Ponferrada you couldn’t help but notice the beautiful Templar’s Castle in the middle of town. The city was under the protection of the Knights Templar by order of King Fernando II in 1178. At the beginning of the 12th century, the Templar knights took possession of the fortress and reinforced and extended it to use it as a palace and for protection of the pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela.

La Torre del Reloj clock tower in Ponferrada built in the 16th century. It is the main entrance into Ponferrada.
Castillo de Los Templarios (Knights Templar Castle)

Heading out of Ponferrada this morning, it was raining and so we all waited for the rain to stop so we could hit the trail to Villafranca. Todays journey was beautiful, passing through the Beirzo wine region with many vineyards and wineries surrounded by mountain ranges.

Beautiful maintain vistas with the wine country below on the path to Villafranca del Bierzo.
Vineyards on the path today. Beautiful countryside
Love the personal messages people leave on the way.

We did get hit with some rain and had to put on our poncho’s to stay dry today. For the most part I stayed dry, but had the occasional rain on the route. The countryside today was beautiful and made for a nice change from the sharp rocks of the prior days hike.

Super sexy ponchos in the rain.
My crow friends talking to me on the trail today.
The town of Villafranca del Bierzo. This really looks like a beautiful European town and reminds me a lot of the towns in Austria or Germany.

Coming into the town of Villafranca del Beirzo, I’ve now walked over 415 miles! Getting close to the finish line with every day.

The Church of Santiago I’m Villafranca with the “Door of Forgiveness”
My current location as I walk west to Santiago.

My thoughts: I’ve now walked 415 miles on my journey to date. Crazy to think I have just a little left to go to get to Santiago and then from there to Finesterre. It won’t be long before this whole journey comes to an end. I’m forever changed by this experience and find myself again extremely appreciative of this opportunity and very humbled.

5 responses to “Walk Days 33-34 Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo”

  1. Thanks for sharing the history! Wonder when they will pick their grapes! ? We are waiting for rain too but none in site. Mr Crow will make you are safe on the path.

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  2. kanixon5491230cd9 Avatar
    kanixon5491230cd9

    Hi Charles, I am continually amazed but how far you’ve come and the beautiful countryside you’ve seen. Those rocky, steep trails are no joke!  Stay safe as you continue this wonderful journey!

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  3. Another great post and update!
    Some of the rocky trail looks more like a creek bed. I’m sure that it was a challenge to walk on.
    The old building structures and art are so beautiful! It’s amazing to think about how much labor and engineering it took to build something like that, by hand , one stone at the time!
    When you are just out for a walk, 415 miles is quite a lot!! 😃😃
    I look forward to your next posting!
    Hugs 🙏

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  4. The door of forgiveness. I love that. Every town, or city needs one of those currently. ❤️ So happy for you and your accomplishment!

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    1. Right? I agree! There are only two “doors of forgiveness” in all of Spain. One of the reasons that some people walk the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage is to connect with their faith and ask for forgiveness for their sins or the sins of others. This is called a plenary indulgence, or Jubilee, and can be received during Holy Years. 2022 is a Holy Year on the Camino. The majority of pilgrims will walk to Santiago de Compostela and enter the cathedral through the Holy Door to receive their forgiveness.

      Pilgrims who are not able to complete their pilgrimage in Santiago because of illness or injury can instead stop in Villafranca instead. They can walk through the “Door of Forgiveness” on Villafranca’s Romanesque Iglesia de Santiago church.

      Pilgrims who enter by this door, are pardoned for their sins.

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